‘Every Cook Should Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on List of London’s Top Food Spots.

When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.